A short distance from Gol lies the town of Torpo.
ゴルからしばらく行くと Torpo(トルポ)という町があります。
This is a photo I took in Torpo. In the center is a traditional stave church, to the left is a newer church and cemetery, and the building on the right features plants growing naturally on its moss-covered roof. It’s a scene that perfectly symbolizes the Norwegian countryside.
Halfway between Gol and Geilo lies the town of Ål. The name of the river changed upstream from Ål. It seems the name “Hallingdal River” applies only to the section downstream from Ål.
I arrived at the junction town of Geilo just before noon. The town sits at an elevation of 794 meters, meaning I had climbed about 550 meters in elevation over the 50 kilometers from Gol. Here, I also bid farewell to the Bergen Railway, which had accompanied me thus far.
The Bergen Railway is a single-track line used by both express and local trains. Trains passing each other or local trains waiting were handled within station areas where the track was partially doubled. Shortly after leaving Geiro, Route 7 and the Bergen Railway split into two paths, with the railway continuing westward.
As for me, I headed south on Route 8, where the main event of the day—crossing three mountain passes—awaited. As a self-proclaimed “Pass-Hunter” (?) who has conquered countless passes, my arms—no, my legs—were itching for this first pass crossing in a while. That said, the passes on this day were all just over 1,000 meters?!
これはそのトルポで撮った写真です。中央に昔ながらのスターブヒルケ(木造教会)、左に新しい教会と墓地、右の建物は苔むす屋根に自生する植物。いかにもノルウェーの田舎を象徴する風景です。
ゴルとイェイロの中間に Ål(オール)という町があります。このオールの上流から川の名前が変わりました。ハリンダル川はオールの下流からの呼び名のようです。
昼前には分岐の町イェイロに到着しました。町の標高は794ｍ、50キロ走ってゴルとの標高差約550ｍを上ってきたことになります。ここで今まで一緒に走ってきたベルゲン鉄道ともお別れです。
ベルゲン鉄道は急行と鈍行がともに走る単線です。上下列車のすれ違いや鈍行列車の待機などは一部複線化されている駅構内で行われていました。７号線とベルゲン鉄道はイェイロ出てしばらく行くと二手に別れ西へと進んでいきます。
一方の私は８号線を南下、この日のメインイベント三つの峠越えが待っています。数々の峠をクリアしてきたPass-Hunter(？)の私としては久々の峠越えに腕が、いや脚が鳴ります。といってもこの日の峠は何れも1,000ｍちょい?!
Once I pass through the marshes on the outskirts of Geilo, the climb finally begins. Traffic is about half that of Route 7, so it looks like I’ll be able to take it slow. Ski slopes and lifts are clearly visible on the surrounding mountainsides. Even more than in the town of Gol, I can imagine how bustling this place must be as a winter resort.
I powered up the steep climb in one go to 1,010 m, then 1,063 m, and finally, just over 30 km from Geilo, the third pass at 1,100 m—this is the highest point on Route 8. Surrounded by mountains ranging from 1,200 to 1,300 m, the landscape had transformed into a desolate scene. This is what’s known as the tree line.
In Japan, with the exception of Hokkaido, the tree line is said to be around 2,500 meters above sea level. However, in this area north of 60 degrees latitude, differences in natural conditions—such as sunlight, temperature, and rainfall—mean that the tree line occurs at lower elevations. You might not immediately grasp what 60 degrees north latitude means, but if I mention the base of the Kamchatka Peninsula or the southern tip of Alaska, you’ll likely be able to picture it.
イェイロの町外れの湖沼を抜けるといよいよ上りです。交通量は７号線の半分ほど、ゆっくりと走れそうです。周囲の山肌にゲレンデやリフトが目立ちます。ゴルの町にもまして冬場のリゾートとしての賑わいが想像できます。
急な登りを一気に上り1,010ｍ、次いで1,063ｍ、そしてイェイロから30キロちょっとで三つ目の1,100ｍの峠、ここが８号線の最高地点になります。周りは1,200～1,300ｍの山々、荒涼とした風景に一変しました。いわゆる森林限界です。
日本では北海道を除いて森林限界は、標高2,500ｍ前後といわれています。それが北緯60度を超えるこの辺りでは、日照時間や気温、雨量など自然条件の違いにより低い標高でも森林限界となっているのです。北緯60度といってもピンとこないかもしれません。カムチャッカ半島の付け根、アラスカの南端といえば想像できると思います。
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